Today's Thoughts

When you talk to a Muslim and the name of the Prophet Mohammad is spoken, his name is followed by the phrase "Peace Be Upon Him." Saturday is a holiday, Milad Al Nabi, the birthday of the Prophet. When I was reading about the holiday in the Gulf News, the English language newspaper published in UAE, the above phrase was shortened to PBUH. I had to chuckle when I read it. When they name the ruler of Dubai, they print it ALL out, but they give Mohammad the short version. And because you were wondering, the ruler's full name: His Highness Shaikh Mohammad Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice-President of the United Arab Emirates and Ruler of Dubai. Try learning that in kindergarten!

I need to get back to "The Bold and the Beautiful." I just won't be able to go with my day until I find out if Ditsy Brunette Character #3 is still in love with Beefy Blond Character #6. The suspense is killing me!

Some Photos of Dubai

Some of the government buildings on the east bank of Dubai Creek taken from west bank.

Dubai Municipal buildings~far left is city hall.

Old fort turned museum in the old quarter of Dubai.

Got water? Replica boat outside museum.

History map of Arabia inside the museum.

Today I took the opportunity to play tourist and rode a guided tour bus through the city. It was so bad that I got off midway through and finished the rest on my own. I toured the Dubai museum located in the above pictured fort that was restored around 2000. One of the interesting tidbits that I picked up during my visit to the museum was that more than 90 percent of the water used in the city is obtained through desalinization.

Arabia

After a very nice break with Bob in Europe, I am back in Arabia. I returned late last night, arriving at about midnight. I will be here in Dubai for a little over a week--half pleasure and half work--before returning to Kabul.

Thought for the day: on the flights to and from Vienna, I noticed that we gave a wide berth to Iraqi airspace.

Time to go out and enjoy the near-90 degree weather!

Vienna

Old mechnical clock in downtown Vienna.

Where it all began...

Stephansplatz, downtown Vienna.

St Stephen's Cathedral.

A special prize for the correct answer to this question: What event happened on June 15-16, 1927 in Austria? There is a special monument with many gravestones with this central marker.

A simple monument in the Christian section of the cemetery.

Old Jewish section of Central Cemetery.

Main church in center of Central Cemetery.

Beethoven's grave.


Bob and I had a great time in Vienna. We walked miles throughout the city, ate some excellent food, and enjoyed exploring this fine city. He began his return journey this morning and I will begin mine this afternoon. Next stop: Arabia.

"Wie Geht's?"

I have arrived safely in Vienna (Wien). I will take this opportunity to give Emirates Airline a resounding 'two thumbs up' rating and a strong endorsement. Without a doubt, the finest airline I have ever flown with from A to Z.

More later when I have had a chance to rest a bit.

First Leg

I made it to Dubai on Wing and a Prayer Airline. The views during the flight were magnificent. Last time I flew over southern Iran, it was so cloudy I could not see anything. Today I got to see many miles of the region's deserts and mountains.

Quick night and fly to Vienna in the morning.

Nawrooz Photos

Holiday traffic on the highway west of my house. Notice that there is finally a hint of green grass appearing in the adjacent park.

The houses directly above the above photo in the springtime sunlight.

Holiday crowds in the park northwest of my house.

Another shot of holiday traffic.

"Hey, Mr. Ice Cream man!" Children are children everywhere. The ice cream man's cart is a converted pedal cycle.

Roshan: The largest telecommunications company in Afghanistan. These giant billboards, advertising everything from travel to Coca-Cola, are everywhere in Kabul.

The highest house on the hill behind my house. What a view they must have. One of my goals while I am here is to climb the mountain--the local people think I am crazy.

Travels this Week

I am leaving for Austria tomorrow, so I will be off-line for a day or two. I am going to spend four days in Vienna before returning to the Arabian peninsula for eight days in Dubai on business. I am planning to take both my computer and camera, so there should be lots of stories to write and photos to post in the future.

Attack on U.S. Embassy Convoy

Earlier this morning, a suicide bomber detonated his vehicle-borne explosives targeting an embassy convoy travelling in the eastern part of downtown Kabul. No embassy personnel were killed, but some did sustain injuries.

New Year in Afghanistan

Wednesday is the day that Afghans celebrate Nawrooz or the new year.


I am not an enthusiastic fan of Wikipedia, but linked here is a decent thumbnail sketch of Nawrooz.

Saint Patrick's Day

Happy St. Patrick's Day!

I had another great day in Kabul. Through his U.S. mentor, I was able to arrange a visit with a general officer within the Ministry of Interior. I spent the morning in his office listening to his thoughts and discussing his department's future. (NOTE: At the general's request and for his safety, I will disclose neither his department/division, nor his name.) I found him to be keenly astute regarding his office's chance of success. After the visit to his office (complete with the traditional sharing of delicious chai), I was able to arrange a spontaneous (safer for the general and more authentic as well) lunch at our camp. He was treated well according to his rank and position within the government, but no 'dog and pony show' that would have occurred if more notice had been given. He appreciated the effort and the sincerity of the visit. I thoroughly enjoyed visiting with a man that has lived through more than I could ever imagine and yet remains positive and committed to a peaceful and prosperous future for his people.

Afghan Web Site

Jawed, one of our language assistants, showed me a great web site written by an Afghan. The site covers everything from Islam to Afghan history. Visit the site, but be prepared to stay for a while.

New Neighbor

While I was out with the local kids, this little girl appeared. We hadn't met her before and when Scott showed his camera, she immediately posed and smiled her great little smile. Welcome to the neighborhood, young miss.

Image courtesy of S.O./mslamotor16@gmail.com.

Friends and Photos

With Jawed, one of our great language assistants. (In the hallway outside of my room/office.)

Our Afghan camp grounds staff outside of my house.

Scott and I with one our Afghan staff.

Keeping the local dentist employed.

Steve--from Everett, no less.

All images courtesy of S.O./mslamotor16@gmail.com.

Politics, Foreign Policy, Religion

I was a fortunate man today. I had the opportunity to participate in the most fascinating and intellectually stimulating conversation since I arrived in Kabul. I visited the office of our language assistants (it is in my house directly under my office/room) to ask them a question an Arabic phrase that I had heard and ended up staying two hours. We talked about everything ranging from Afghan history to U.S. foreign policy and British colonialism. I came away from the conversation more enriched and proud to know these men.

Kabul Explosion-Update

It appears that this morning's explosion was an industrial accident. Public source here.

Explosion in Kabul

There was a large explosion this morning (Wednesday) near the Olympic Stadium in Kabul. There are conflicting stories surrounding the blast, as is the case anywhere in the world after such an event, but the area of the blast was not Western. More later as the day progresses.

Here and There

Yesterday was filled with errands all about town. Scott and I retrieved our normal vehicle from the service/repair facility in eastern Kabul (you wouldn't believe how fast you go through oil and air filters!), delivered some documents to a couple of other offices around town, and stopped by one of the Army posts to mail off a letter. The day started off gray and cloudy in true Seattle fashion. By noon the rain had turned to snow and we spent the afternoon looking at some of the biggest snowflakes I have ever seen.

I awoke to my first cold here. With everything that my body has been getting used to since arriving, I am surprised that it took so long and that it is only a cold.

In other news: the roadside bombing that occurred yesterday (Monday) was in the Bakwa district of Farah province. Farah is located on the Afghanistan-Iran border just south of Herat.

Lunch at the Australian Embassy

Sunday lunch group--representing U.S., New Zealand, and South Africa--at Red Hot Sizzlin'.

Some of the staff at Red Hot Sizzlin'.

We celebrated a team member's birthday and bid farewell to one of our New Zealand staff today at the Australian Embassy. It is not really the embassy, but that is what the international community calls it (the owner is an Aussie). It sounds more professional to say you have a meeting at the embassy, than "We're going to Sizzler." The restaurant is called Red Hot Sizzlin. We enjoyed a fine meal before wishing Bruce safe travels and Mike yet another birthday.

What's in a Name?

Today's lesson is on pronunciation. People tend to pronounce the name of my fair city two ways: one rhyming with cobble and the other sounding like 'ka-bool' rhyming with pool. I finally broke down and asked (I know; I run the risk of having my man-club membership card revoked by asking questions) how the local folks pronounced it.

Drum roll please... 'cobble' with the emphasis on the second syllable.

Convoy

Convoy photo outside of Bagram AB. I am driving the blue Chevy pick-up.

Another convoy photo.

All photos courtesy of S.O. mslamotor16@gmail.com.

More Photos

New construction--apartment-style buildings.

Family near a market in western Kabul.

Small cemetery and housing.

Market. You tell me where the road is...

Cemetery along western Kabul roadway.

All photos courtesy of S.O. mslamotor16@gmail.com.

Some miscellaneous photos taken this morning. These photos were all taken from inside our armored vehicle while I was driving through town. This is what the outskirts of western Kabul looks like. The eastern parts of the valley are much more industrial looking with large warehouses.

On the Road Again

Me at the wheel of my truck in Kabul. Photo courtesy of S.O. mslamotor16@gmail.com.

Most of us were under travel restrictions for much of the past week. The demonstrations that occured in the aftermath of several military incidents caused us to stay close to the flagpole for safety sake. We celebrated the lifting of the restriction by going to the mall, stopping at 7-11 for a Slurpee, going through the car wash, and cruising the waterfront. Well, actually we were just headed to Bagram.

To answer the question: "What on Earth is he wearing?" When we leave the safety of our little home, we wear body armor. Those of you that knew me when I was a uniformed officer will remember me wearing a vest under my uniform shirt. This body armor is worn on the outside. It is capable of stopping a Mack truck and weighs about the same. On top of that is a survival vest filled with... well, survival stuff.

Upcoming Travels

In two weeks, I will join forces with Bob in Vienna for a weekend of relaxation. Bob is in Hungary teaching (or at least that is what he is claiming on his taxes) and asked if I could get away for a few days. Austria may never be the same.

Kites

One sure sign that spring is nearing is the arrival of the kites of Kabul. As the days become gradually warmer, the children have begun to fly their kites in the afternoon. Having read The Kite Runner, I was wondering if the tradition had survived to the current generation. It appears that the Afghan resilience is alive and well.

Gifts and Friendship

One of the cultural things that we were taught when we first arrived in Afghanistan was that Afghans are incredibly generous. If you comment that an Afghan's jacket is attractive, you can expect to receive the jacket as a gift. The other half of this custom is that you are expected to reciprocate.

Yesterday my friend Donny (you may recall him from the helicopter flight to Gardez earlier this month) called me. Donny is a mentor to an Afghan general officer at the Ministry of Interior. Donny said that he had commented on the general's prayer beads (similar to a Catholic rosary) and the general had in turn given the beads to him. Afghans like pictures and certificates that they can hang on their walls. I had made some office door signs for the team and Donny wondered if I could create something for him to give to the general. The above is what I created; Donny is presenting it to the general later this week. I even came up with the phrase at the bottom and asked Tim (the man that recently became engaged) to translate it into Dari for me.

Hark! Is that Hallmark at the door?

Reader Loyalty

On February 12, I began tracking how many people were reading my blog. While I slept last night, the counter went over 1,000 views. Wow!

Good Morning, Moon

Moon at dawn over western Kabul valley.

One of the stories that we told Annie when I was leaving was that she and I would still see the same moon. When we looked up into the sky and saw the moon, we would know that other person was thinking about and loving the other. This picture was taken at dawn this morning. It was very cold and windy this morning, but that made the morning air all the more clear.

Annie, when I saw this big moon this morning, I couldn't help thinking of you. Your daddy misses and loves you.

Meet Scott

Scott and one of the neighborhood Afghan policeman.

Scott is my roommate and work partner in Kabul. This photo was taken during one of my recent candy adventures with the local children. Scott was born and raised in the Tri-Cities (Washington) and now lives in Missoula, Montana.

News from Jalalabad

There was an attack on an ISAF/Coalition forces convoy today near the city of Jalalabad. Story here. J-bad is situated near the Afghanistan-Pakistan border and is the scene of regular cross-border violence. This is the region of the famous Kyber Pass which has seen warriors and invaders since the days of Alexander the Great. It is poppy growing/cultivation season in that part of the country and there are regular demonstrations against the eradication programs aimed at curbing the narco-economy of this nation.

A short note to let you know that I am well and was not involved.

Anyone Seen the Ocean?

ar·ro·gance -noun offensive display of superiority or self-importance (Dictionary.com)

We have just finished a four-day visit by some of the senior leadership from the States. My earlier post regarding their visit shed a little light on my opinion of snobbish behavior. Lobster tails flown in (I re-checked my maps; Afghanistan doesn't have any ocean-front property.), dressing the staff up like little clowns, forcing the 'regular' people to eat outside in the weather, and stemware on tables that haven't seen glasses... ever? And, I cannot stand listening to haughty people talking down to the locals. Perhaps this is my own arrogance showing, but don't waltz on in here and undo what we are working so hard to accomplish.

As soon as the 'important' people left, the mood in the camp (mine included) improved significantly. Maybe now we can go back to helping people, instead of entertaining corporate big shots.

Snow... again.

Yesterday was such a beautiful day with blue skies and warmer temperatures. The sun went down last night and Viola! back to Minsk we go. We awoke to more snow this morning. Mother Nature seems to be toying with us. After the wet and nasty autumn at home and the never ending winter in Kabul, I am ready for spring.

What a Waste!

One of my many funny memories of when I dressed up and played little green army man was the reaction of local commanders when they were about to be visited by their bosses. Rocks would get painted, sidewalks scrubbed, and utilities that had been broken for weeks would get fixed. This past week has been a bit of this scene revisited. If you walked too slowly around camp, you were liable to get a coat of paint slopped onto your boots. Dinner tonight took the cake; if it hadn't been so pathetic, it would have been comical. In the middle of a city that hasn't seen peace for over three decades and the average household income is $800 PER YEAR, there was shrimp cocktail, frilly table clothes, and name tags for the VIPs. Even the kitchen staff was forced to dress up in white linen shirts complete with white gloves. The whole affair has really frosted my Wheaties.